If you're tired of the cloudy, and frequently foggy weather this winter you can blame the geography of Western Montana. 

It's a scenario many new arrivals might find upsetting, after seeing all the pictures of "bluebird days" in the winter before moving here. And National Weather Service forecasters say conditions like these make forecasting tough too.

This winter is turning into a classic example of the problems with Western Montana geography in the middle of the winter. Day after day of overcast weather, little sun and fog blanketing the valleys. 

Meteorologist Dave Noble says we can blame our landscape's combination of high mountains and valleys filled with rivers and lakes.

"This sort of situation can be tough to eliminate, especially if you have like no wind or lack of sunshine. Strong high pressure over us for multiple days, so the temperature inversions can create fog. You can have sound issues, and air stagnation." 

Flathead Lake is a major weather generator, and from late October through February, condensation, even from smaller lakes and all our rivers, provides a problematic source of moisture.

"You know you have cold air trapped in the valleys, so it's stable," Noble explains. "You have particulates that are accumulating every day. And so the air pollution gets worse and worse and worse. You know, usually, there's stagnant, high pressure over us, and that just hangs for a long time."

Missoula cloud cover was close to normal (red) in 2022 NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Missoula cloud cover was close to normal (red) in 2022
NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Kalispell had more cloudy days (blue) in 2022 NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Kalispell had more cloudy days (blue) in 2022
NWS graphic; Dave Noble

It's all about the mixing

So much so that it can take a considerable shift in the weather, usually in the form of a cold front, to provide "mixing" to push out the stagnant air. And that's often just temporary relief. It's not dissimilar to summer when inversions can trap fire smoke in the valleys for days on end, until a cold front comes through. 

"And when the cold front comes through, it actually mixes up colder air out and brings in the cold front air from the Pacific. And it's usually milder and sometimes dramatically milder, so we don't start feeling the cooler air until the winds kind of dies down the next day," Noble says. "High pressure builds, you know. You get radiational cooling at night, and the temperature inversion starts developing again."

High pressure is good for the high country, not the valleys

And often at this point in the winter, although not so much this year, that high pressure effectively puts a lid on things and blocks out weather changes.

"The snow is starting to get kind of crunchy in the mountains. People are kind of like 'when's the snow going to fall?' You know and that's when we got the temperature inversions. So you start seeing an increase of fog and stratus in the valley especially further north like Flathead Valley, Mission Valley because of Flathead Lake."

Don't like clouds? Move to Butte

In fact, Noble says Kalispell can be somewhat worse, with 60-to-70 percent cloudy days, and Missoula not far behind. If you want relief, go to Butte where clouds can only be a problem 20 percent of the time. 

The darker reds show higher cloud cover NWS graphic; Dave Noble
The darker reds show higher cloud cover
NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Kalispell winter cloud cover, shown in dark red NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Kalispell winter cloud cover, shown in dark red
NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Graphic showing fewer cloudy days in Butte (dark red)  NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Graphic showing fewer cloudy days in Butte (dark red)
NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Chart showing the comparison between Kalispell and Missoula in winter months NWS graphic; Dave Noble
Chart showing the comparison between Kalispell and Missoula in winter months
NWS graphic; Dave Noble

And finding your way through the fog isn't just your problem. It also makes winter forecasting harder.

"It's not easy sometimes to find the fronts because the mountains and all the cold areas kind of locked in the valleys. Sometimes even if a cold front moves through and it's a weak cold front, it may not even mix out the temperature inversion. So it's not always a clear-cut forecast sometimes." 

Montana's Top 10 Record-Setting Wild Weather Events

Montana is named Big Sky Country for several reasons, not only grandiose Sunsets but impressive weather events as well! Ask any Montana resident who has scoffed at the idea of tossing a blanket or snow shovel in the trunk of the car ” just in case”. Here is a list of Montana's Top 10 Record-Setting Wild Weather Events
 Montanas Top 10 Record-Setting Wild Weather Events
Montanas Top 10 Record-Setting Wild Weather Events

Photo credit Canva

Montana's Top 10 Record-Setting Wild Weather Events

Montana holds the United States (and perhaps world) record for the fastest rise in temperature over a 24-hour period. A downslope chinook wind pushed the temperature at the town of Loma from -54°F at 9 am on January 14th, 1972, to 49°F by 8 am on January 15th. The 103°F rise is the greatest change in temperature ever officially measured on earth within a 24-hour period. It’s mentioned in the Guinness book of world records. Yeah! Were number one! Yay. 
Jim Wood
Jim Wood

Photo credit NWS Great Falls

Jim Wood

Weather service observer Jim Wood with his instrument shelter at Loma, Montana where the famous world-record 103°F change of temperature happened on January 14th-15th,1972. Jim Wood Had no idea at the time he was going to be part of Montana history. Photo courtesy NWS/Great Falls.
Cold! Rodgers Pass, Montana
Cold! Rodgers Pass, Montana

Photo credit Google Maps

Cold! Rodgers Pass, Montana

We’re number one! In the lower 48. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Montana was -70 degrees below at Rogers Pass north of Helena in a mining camp, on January 20th, 1954. This is also a national record for the lower 48 states. You can see a roadside designator marking the spot- or close to it if you travel Montana highway 200 providing the shortest route between the cities of Great Falls and Missoula, Montana
Hot! Medicine Lake, Montana
Hot! Medicine Lake, Montana

Photo credit Google maps

Hot! Medicine Lake, Montana

It's a Tie! The warmest temperature ever recorded in Montana was 117 degrees at Glendive, on July 20th, 1893, and again at Medicine Lake, on July 5th, 1937. Ice was in great demand on both days no doubt!
Cold to Warm Great Falls Montana
Cold to Warm Great Falls Montana

Photo credit Google maps

Cold to Warm Great Falls Montana

From Cold To Warm Montana has done it! 47°F rise in 7 minutes: Great Falls, Montana on January 11th 1980. The temperature rose 82°, from -30°F on the 10th to 52°F by the 14th, then plummeted back to -26°F on the 29th. On the same date, a site in central Montana named Roy 24 NE (near Mobridge, Montana) went from -25°F near midnight on the 11th to 53° on the afternoon of the 12th, a 78° rise in about 18 hours.
Other big changes were noted: 80°F rise in 15 hours: Kipp, Montana on December 1st, 1896. 42°F rise in 15 minutes: Fort Assiniboine, Montana on January 19th, 1893. Quit touching the thermostat!
From Warm to Cold. Fairfield, Montana
From Warm to Cold. Fairfield, Montana

Photo credit Google maps

From Warm to Cold. Fairfield, Montana

Montana holds the world record for the sharpest drops in heat along with the sharpest rise. Browning, Montana, saw its temperature drop 100°F, from 44°F to -56°F, in less than 24 hours as a cold front pass through on January 23-24th, 1916. That's mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records. Fairfield, MT, saw an 84° drop (from 63°F to -21°F) in just 12 hours on December 24th, 1924. HO HO HO! This is generally credited as the record for any 12-hour period.
Choteau, near Miller Colony Montana
Choteau, near Miller Colony Montana

Photo credit Google maps

Choteau, near Miller Colony Montana

Montana's highest recorded wind gust came in 2002 came in at 143 mph at Miller Colony near Choteau in Teton County. Go fly a KITE! said no one that day.
Snow Baby Snow! Cooke City, Montana
Snow Baby Snow! Cooke City, Montana

Photo credit Google maps

Snow Baby Snow! Cooke City, Montana

Cooke City, Montana near the Wyoming border calls itself a small friendly town, and rightly so with a population of around 139 and an annual snowfall approaching 80 inches it is called Montana's snowiest city. Just ask them!
Bitterroot Valley Montana
Bitterroot Valley Montana

Photo credit Google maps

Bitterroot Valley Montana

The Bitterroot Valley is said to be the “Banana Belt” of Montana because the weather is far less severe than in some other parts of Montana. This is despite the fact that legendary travelers Lewis and Clark and their team almost froze to death crossing the Bitterroot range on their trek west in 1805, but we wouldn’t go there.
Most Best Last Place
Most Best Last Place

Photo credit Canva

Most Best Last Place

Check this out! In northeastern Montana, the record heat at Medicine Lake reached 117 degrees on July 5, 1937. Combined with the -70F at Roger's Pass in 1954, makes the overall temperature range recorded in Montana a whopping 187 degrees. This is the most extreme temperature range experienced in any of the 50 states. Montana is seriously the last best place!