If you’d like to get your kids interested in gardening, growing strawberries is just the ticket! They bear juicy, red fruit that nearly everyone loves and are pretty easy to manage.

If you don’t have space for a garden, you still have a few options–they can be grown in pots on a balcony, in flower beds and even hanging baskets. They generally produce fruit for two or three years so you can enjoy them again and again.
Time To Start Digging

Here’s a tip sheet full of instructions to help get you started…

When: They should be planted in early Spring soon after all danger of frost has passed and the soil can be worked. Those who live in warmer climates can also plant them in the Fall and enjoy an abundance of berries in the Spring. 
Location: These guys love lots of sun so to help them thrive, find a spot where they will get at least 4-6 hours of sunlight.  They can thrive in a vegetable garden, flower beds, raised beds, pots & containers and even hanging baskets. If you choose containers, make sure the soil is at least 12″ deep so they have room to stretch their feet.   Select a location that’s sheltered a bit from the wind and away from where peppers, tomatoes and potatoes are growing since they could harbor verticillium wilt, this is a disease they’re susceptible to.
How: You’ll notice they will have some long roots going on and that can make things a bit clumsy when trying to get them in the soil. You can trim the roots back to about 4″ for easier handling. Arrange so the roots are fanned out a bit (horizontally) rather than deep (vertically).  How deep? You want the roots completely covered in soil but the crown resting right above soil level (you’ll see the crown right above the roots).
Raised Bed
To get started, you first want to dig the soil up really well so it’s nice and loose and mix in some compost. Pinch off any blossoms and dead leaves. Water well after planting.

Watering: They need lots of water to thrive (at least an inch a week) but make sure the soil is well draining and that you don’t over water otherwise you’ll find rot setting in. Water daily during hot weather. To help keep the soil fairly moist, cool and weed-free, spread a layer of straw or mulch a couple inches thick around them.
On The Stem 
Growing Season: Help them thrive by keeping the patch free of weeds, strawberries have shallow root systems and the weeds can seriously interfere with their growth. Keep the soil moist, well draining and cool if possible (cover with a layer of mulch). A nice and tidy patch that is well maintained yields the best results.
Harvesting: They will start producing berries in June and you can find varieties that will produce into Fall. It’s important to pick the fruit as they ripen to prevent them from rotting on the plant. If you’ve missed a few and do find some that are overripe and rotting, still pick them off to avoid attracting pests and disease.
Once they start ripening, check every other day to pick them (some believe you’ll get sweeter berries by letting the ripe ones stay on at least another day before picking).  Remove by pinching them off at the stem right above the berry (keep about 1/2″ of the stem attached to the berry).

Types

June Bearing: These produce once a year (June). June Bearing are planted this year to enjoy a harvest next year. To help them get established, pinch off all blossoms the first year of growing. June bearing typically produce the largest berries.
Ever Bearing: These produce twice a year (Spring & Fall). To help them get established the first year you start them, pinch off the first set of blossoms up until July then allow the blossoms to grow so you can enjoy a Fall harvest. Next year you can enjoy the harvest in both Spring & Fall (no need to pinch off any blossoms). Ever bearing typically produce smaller berries than the June bearing plants.
Day Neutral: These will produce throughout the summer. In the first season, pinch off the first set of blossoms to help them get established then allow the blossoms to grow. Day neutral typically produce smaller (and sweeter) berries than the June bearing plants. The Hill System works best for this variety.

Tips

Bowl
  • The small white flowers are edible, just like the berries!
  • Once picked, don’t wash them until just before eating. This will help keep them firm and slow down softening while being stored.
  • Some find it worthwhile to cover them with a light netting to help protect the fruit from birds. If you have a lot of birds in your area, give this trick a try.
  • They will not ripen once they’re picked so make sure to pick only when they’re ready.
  • Once picked keep them refrigerated until they can be eaten, this will help extend their shelf life.
  • Some believe that berries picked in the morning have a longer shelf life than those picked later in the day.
  • You can hull them quickly by washing first then taking a wide plastic straw–insert it at the bottom of the berry-–then push the stem out  
  • Towers are an excellent way to grow strawberries in small spaces, you can build your own with a couple 5-gallon plastic buckets.  
Pemberton Garden Center sells so many Strawberry starter plants.  It always amazes me that almost every gardener that comes in has to buy some Strawberry plants.  These should be available for purchase at our store by early April, just a few weeks away!  Stay Tuned and happy planting. 

Mark
  1. Click the link below to listen:



    https://985thesportshub.com/episodes/boston-sunday-review-mark-saidnawey/
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  5. March is the Month to…..

    • Celebrate the arrival of spring! Monday March 20th is the first day of spring. Attending the Boston Flower Show would be a great way to celebrate. This year the show is March 22-26th and the theme is “Superheroes of the Garden”.  
    • Be on the lookout for winter damage. Check for frost heaving which may have disrupted plant roots. If a problem is found, replant if the soil is not frozen or cover with soil and/or mulch until replanting is possible. Also repair any patio or walkway pavers that have been disturbed. Pay attention to where de-icing salt laden snow melt drains in your yard or flower beds. If there is not sufficient rainfall in the spring, these areas will need to be leached with water to avoid plant damage due to high salt concentrations in the soil. 
    • Force spring to come early! Prune branches of forsythia, crabapple, quince, crabapple, or pussy willow for forcing indoors. Remember to consider plant form when selecting branches and prune accordingly. Use sharp pruners and cut branches at least 12” long. Choose branches with many flower buds. It is best to cut branches on a sunny afternoon or when temperatures are above freezing. Keep branches in a bucket of water in a cool area (60 to 65 degrees F) in a humid area in indirect light until flowering begins.
    • Start planning your garden. March is the time to start seeds indoors. The beginning of the month is the right time for onions and leeks. The middle of the month is right for broccoli and cabbage, and the end of the month is right for tomatoes and peppers. 
    • To prune or to not prune.  Many trees and shrubs are good to prune in later winter/early spring. Remember to NOT prune spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia and lilacs at this time. It is also a good time to prune any dead or damaged branches from winter. March is also a good time to prune fruit trees such as apple, peach, and pear. Don’t prune maple or birch trees, which “bleed” when pruned in late winter/early spring – wait to prune these trees until after leaves are fully expanded. 
    • Check on your garden tools and equipment. Did you break your rake last fall? Now is a great time to get a replacement before spring clean-up begins. Plan on sharpening blades or replacing tools before the season really starts going. Change the mower oil. Get new garden gloves or start looking for new flower pots. 
    • Late winter/early spring cleanup can start. Pick up fallen branches and pine or spruce cones. Cut back ornamental grasses to around 2-3”. Cut back any perennials that weren’t cleaned up last fall. As the weather warms, clean up beds, removing fallen leaves and dead foliage - this will help to avoid disease issues. Be on the lookout for early spring bulbs! Clean out birdhouses to get ready for new visitors. 
    • Contact your local landscaper regarding any jobs you don’t want to do yourself. Call them early before their list grows.
    • Watch for signs of drought injury from last year. Although the severity of drought has slowly been reducing over the fall and winter, much of the state is still considered to be under moderate to severe drought. Drought injury may not be apparent on some plants until this year. Possible drought injury symptoms that may arise this spring include: fewer and/or smaller leaves, shorter branches, dieback, reduced flowers and/or fruit set, browning of evergreen leaves and needles, and loss of branches. It is important to be patient as plants recover in the coming year. 
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  6. Why should a kid become a birder? Here are some reasons why we, being young birders, think you should:
    10. There are so many birds! There are more than 9,000 bird species in the world. They come in all shapes and sizes. Some are small, like hummingbirds, and some are big like hawks and eagles. Some, such as tanagers from South America, are brightly colored; others are dull—like gulls off the coast of Australia.
    9. Birds are all around us! Everywhere you look, you can find birds. Whether you are taking a car trip or just out in the local park, there are birds in the sky and in the tree. The cool thing is that wherever you go, you can see new birds that replace the ones you saw in another area.
    8. It is an excuse to get outside! When you are outside, you can find new places wherever you look. Therefore, there are practically infinite places to go. After you have been outside birding for a while, whether it is just for a walk or for a serious bird study, you will start to notice things you have never seen before.
    7. Once you look at birds for a while, you start to see details in the birds you are looking at. Noticing detail is important in all aspects of life. In bird watching, this skill helps you see small field-marks are hard to see. You can also draw birds better if you can pay attention to detail.
    6. Kids that go birding have an excellent understanding and appreciation of the environment. By learning about conservation at an early age through something fun and informative, they become environmentally aware, and this characteristic stays with them their entire lives.
    5. Birding is a fun and interesting activity that promotes ecological research and protection. Getting involved in birding can lead to interesting and prestigious future careers in ecology, biology, and/or natural history.
    4. Birding has something for everybody. Writing, math, physical activity, and of course science are vital to the birding experience. Therefore, birding helps kids develop and improve these skills as well as allowing them to enjoy them.
    3. Birding is a very enjoyable pastime. It combines hiking, mind games, and science. Nothing compares to the thrill of glimpsing a colorful bird and flipping hastily through your field guide to identify it. It does not take long for a young birder to accumulate an incredible life list of exciting and extremely varied bird species.
    2. When you become a serious bird watcher, you will want to see new birds that will not show up in your backyard. Once you get to this point, you will want to travel. If you travel, you get to see places all around the world that you may not get to see otherwise. If you are not able to travel to these places, you can still enjoy their beauty through books and in your own backyard!
    1. Birding allows kids to connect with their family and friends. This pastime involves much socializing and talking, and birders gain more knowledge from other practitioners the more they participate in birding activities.
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  7.  Gardening Advice By the Month -October


    Are you one of those people who think that the New England gardening season is over after September? THINK AGAIN!! The month of October is one of the most important (and fun) months of the year for a New England gardener. There's lots to do so let's get started...
    Cutting dead wood from spent perennials in the garden and mulching beds- I'm sure your plants have been bitten once or twice by frost now(unless you're in a coastal area in New England), and its time for those fall gardening chores! Cut down any woody stems that have died from all of your perennials and put down a protective layer of mulch over them. Most organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings or even peat moss will do the trick. This layer over your garden should be one to two inches thick, enough to provide a little extra protection from New England winter temperatures and cold winds but not so much that you'll be digging up wheel barrels of the stuff next spring. The other beneficial thing it does is that it will break down somewhat over the winter, supplying your plants with some fresh nutrients during their spring and summer growth and helping your historically sandy soil retain water better. Roses are especially susceptible to wind damage in the garden- old timers in New England would cut their bushes to about 12-18 inches above the ground, mulch slightly with organic matter around their base, then cover them with wood baskets. The wood would insulate the rose bushes from the biting winds of winter but would still let air in to circulate and prevent rotting. Today, many garden centers sell styrofoam rose covers- we suggest you do not use them because they allow no air in to circulate and can often kill the bushes during the early spring.
    Plan your spring bulb garden and get those daffodil and crocus bulbs in the ground! At no other time of the year can your imagination run so wild with what you want your New England spring bulb garden to look like. What makes it so unique is that you have no second chances with bulbs. You plant them in the fall and they emerge in the spring. Plant too little in your garden and you'll have to wait until next fall to fill in the empty spots, assuming that is you can remember exactly where the existing bulbs are planted. The point? Do it right the first time and save yourself a lot of aggravation moving forward. If you only have a few bulbs, say 50 or less, plant them quite close together (12-15 inches apart at most)in your garden and you'll have a dramatic show of color in the spring. Spreading them out one a time all over the yard simply doesn't work. You are much better off moving from spot to spot each year in the garden as your budget permits, putting down at least 20 bulbs in one area, so that they stand out and are viewed as a group. Before you know it, your bulbs will be mulitplying year after year (esp. crocus and daffodils), and your spring flowers will too- with little or no maintenance on your part!
    Lastly, that maintenance part we just mentioned...
    Summer-blooming bulbs and perennials can be lifted and split.Summer-blooming bulbs like native and asiatic lilies will reproduce by making extra bulbs under the soil. This is okay for a few years, but there will come a time when flower production is reduced and they must be lifted, separated and replanted about 8 -12 inches apart. This process must be repeated every few years and is best done in the early fall- the benefit for you, free plants!



    Just as most of your summer garden bulbs will multiply each year in New England, the same is true for your spring bulbs like crocus and daffodil. The solution- yup, you guessed it, dig up the clumps and separate the bulbs back to a manageable 12-15 inches. This should be done in the late spring or early summer after blooming and the green leaves have died down. Move the extra bulbs to a new location in your spring garden or give them to neighbors or friends - everybody likes a freebee! We feel that there is no easier New England garden than the spring New England garden - just plant it once and tend to it a couple times a decade, how great is that! See you next month with more New England gardening advice!
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  8. Blanket Flowers

    10 Simple Mid-Summer Gardening Tips to Prolong the Life of Flowers and Plants

    1. Deadhead gradually— as you see flowers wilt and die, nip those as you walk by.  A little here and there is less tedious then tackling it all at once. Save the deadheaded plants and seeds to begin drying for next year’s planting.
    2. Donate surplus veggies to local homeless shelters and soup kitchens. Donate flowers in mason jar vases as well if you have extra. Everyone deserves to experience the joy of a pretty bouquet.
    3.  Remove yellowing, dead and dying leaves and vines from veggies.  This will allow any new growth to be directly distributed to the living parts of the plant.
    4. Sprinkle nutrient-rich topsoil with compost around flowers and plants for a mid-summer boost.
    5. Redistribute leftover mulch in bare areas to freshen up the landscape.
    6. Stage pots of new bloomers throughout perennial gardens that are past peak to add new life to the garden.
    7. Create a garden focal point or centerpiece by placing a wheel barrow or whiskey barrel planter full of colorful annuals in the middle of a past peak perennial garden area.
    8.  Water only plants that need water at this point in the season. Do not waste time and water on anything that has gone by.
    9. Keep a garden journal and take notes on this year’s garden success and failures while it is still fresh in your mind.  Sketch out garden plans for next year and make notes of the climate, conditions and soil.
    10. Finally, take time to relax in your garden and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
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  9. The month of April truly ushers in the season of Spring in New England. Snowdrops, crocuses, and then daffodils seem to sprout and bloom overnight, usually on the heels of a two or three day warm spell. These occur in the early part of April in the south coastal regions of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Massachusetts, and in the latter part of the month in New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine.
    As soon as the outside temperatures allow, its time to remove any dead or decaying matter in your New England garden that may be covering up your spring flowers.

    Its important to rake the garden beds BEFORE they start growing or you can damage the plants, removing the flowers accidentally or even killing the plant before it gets a chance to flower and set leaves.
    spring crocus in the New England garden

    If you have a vegetable garden, or are planning one for this year, now is also the time to turn over the soil from your annual vegetable areas and rake any debris covering perennial vegetables such as asparagus. Again, doing this early makes clean up MUCH easier than trying to work the soil around the vegetables later on after they are established and growing. Believe it or not, by the end of April you can plant peas and lettuce in most of New England directly by seed in the ground for a beautiful spring crop of snow peas and boston lettuce. These vegetables love the cooler days and nights and actually grow much better than in summer heat.

    Lastly, if you are inclined to grow your own vegetables from seed, many of the summer ripening varieties of tomato especially will benefit from an early head start from seed on a sunny windowsill. If you don't have adequate light, however, the seedlings can become long and weak over the next 8 weeks and may be unusable in the garden. So, be sure you have them in a south facing window that gets at least 4-5 hours of direct sun daily. On warm days, open the window and let the breeze blow on the plants. This helps to harden the tissue on the stem so that when you plant them outside, their stems will be able to take the strain of blowing in the wind. It can take up to two weeks to "harden" plants from windowsill to garden so every little bit helps along the way.

    Best of luck and Happy Spring!!!

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  10. It's officially the winter and that means shorter days and longer nights now dominate the horizon.  The ground is starting to freeze and may soon be covered by a fresh blanket of snow, too. Great for skiing and sledding, but a clear sign the end of the gardening season has come.   2015 was a wonderful year for the home gardener.  Although there were drought conditions in certain areas the lack of rain allowed for maximum sun shine and great growing conditions for fruit, veggies, flowering plants and more...  That is, as long as you watered on a regular basis.  But alas, that has come and gone and now begins the countdown to the spring 2016.  

    So what can you do to keep your gardening dreams alive during the winter months?  Start planning for next spring now...

    Hit the books and the internet to start planning your early spring garden.  Now is the time to order seeds for lettuce, peas, onions and other early spring vegetables so that they arrive on your doorstep in January or February for inside planting. Remember, you can start your spring seedlings inside the house or in a coldframe weeks before they will be set outside. The benefit for you.... earlier yields and a little something to keep your green thumb occupied during the long cold winter!
    start shopping the seed catalogs for the best selection and prices

    Lastly, don't forget to pot up your next batch of spring blooming bulbs for forcing. You can keep the show going non-stop until your garden begins to show signs of life in March/April! 

    Have a safe and wonderful winter...  Reach out with to us with any gardening questions...

    Cheers, Mark

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  11. November Gardening Tips



    It's Time to Cover Up Perennials

     Once frosts begin to cover your perennial gardens, you should consider putting your garden to bed for the winter in a way that keeps your plants in good condition for next spring.  The sudden shifts in temperatures that we are used to in New England are dangerous for plants.  If the winter slowly gets cold and stays cold plants will adjust, but if it’s warm early in the season and then suddenly the temperature drops into single digits, you are more likely to lose plants due to winter kill.  Warm-weather coverings like mulch won’t help very much in these circumstances, which is why a different cover is needed.Marginally hardy perennials are best protected in December.  Salt-marsh hay is our recommendation for a cover.  In fact, salt march hay is a bit of a New England secret, as most comes from the salt   marshes of the East Coast, and it is seldom seen or heard about west of the Appalachians.  The grass is harvested in early July through the fall until the salt marshes freeze solid. Its advantages in your garden?  It resists rotting, it doesn’t pack down and smother plants, and it’s not weedy because seeds never  sprout. Salt marsh hay requires the saltwater tidal changes to germinate and grow, and your garden isn’t a salt marsh.

    Here are some other general guidelines for putting your perennial garden to bed for the winter.
    Cutting Back:  The general rule is to leave any plant that has green, good looking foliage and cut back those that have turned yellow or brown.  You shouldn’t cut down woody plants such as lavender, roses, and Russian Sage, or early spring bloomers such as creeping phlox, candytuft, euphorbias, or soapwort.

    Hard at working raking
    Leaves:  Although chopped leaves are great mulch and soil amendment for perennial gardens, whole leaves that fall into the garden should be removed as they will not break down by next spring and will need to be removed then.
    Ornamental Grasses:  Most tall grasses are left in the garden because they supply winter interest in otherwise bare beds. I usually cut them down once the snow has beaten them down.  This is if I can get to them.  If not, doing it in the spring is completely fine.
    Soil Amendment: Late fall is a great time to spread compost or composted manure over the surface of a perennial bed.  All you need is about an inch of compost or manure.
    Transplanting: Be sure to water your transplants well, and apply a layer of dark compost on the top of the soil to absorb the heat of the sun. When the soil is kept warmer the roots will grow and reestablish more quickly.

    These end of season items can be done anytime going forward.  The weather has been great so far this November and the outlook for the coming days seem perfect for these tasks.

    Best of luck and thanks for another great gardening season.  
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  12. Time to prepare your garden for the winter ahead.


    Once the leaves begin to fall, your annuals begin to fade and your lawn has turned green again after a blistering-hot summer.  It's Mother Nature's way of telling us to put the garden to bed for winter.  

    The Vegetable Garden
    The first thing you want to do is to pull up old vines and vegetable plants.  Insect pests that feed on these plants during summer and fall often lay eggs on the old plants so be sure to get them all out of the garden.  If the vines are left on the soil surface, insect eggs will survive the winter and hatch in the spring.  If you are pretty confident that they are not diseased you can work the old plants back into the garden soil.   This adds valuable organic matter to the soil and, at the same time, destroys insects and their eggs.  You may also want to add other organic material to your garden this fall.   Composted manure, home-made compost, peat or leaves all are welcomed in the garden.  

    Annual Flowers
    Pull up spent vines and foliage of annual flowers and compost them.  However, if the plants are diseased be sure to discard them in the trash.

    Perennials
    After temperatures hit freezing and the plants die back, cut the stems on most perennials to within an inch or two of the ground.  Dispose of the cuttings; they can harbor diseases that could survive the winter and return to the plants in the spring.   Some plants, such as Oriental poppies and iris, produce a cluster of green leaves in the fall.  Leave these intact.  Remove only the older, brown stems that remain form the spent flowers.
    As the season progresses and the weather becomes colder, mulch the soil around the plants.  This is generally done in mid-to late November. Mulch keeps roots cold.   It doesn't protect them from the cold.  A plant can be hardy in more northerly latitudes where winter temperatures are severe but can be injured here, where winter temperatures fluctuate considerably.  The alternate freezing and thawing of exposed soil can damage roots and even heave them out of the ground.
    Recommended mulching materials for perennials include hay or straw, evergreen boughs, pine needles, peat moss and cornstalks.  These mulches are light and won't pack or suffocate roots.  Apply to a depth of 4 to 6 inches.  A few plants, however, such as peonies and bearded iris, don't require winter mulching and , in fact, do better without it.  Mulching can cause their thick, fleshy roots to rot.  As with other perennials, though, they require watering during dry winter conditions.

    Weeding
    It doesn't matter where the weds are--the vegetable garden, flower beds or the lawn--this is a good time to get rid of them. Consider this:  Weeds that are spread by seed produce thousands more seeds.   Better to pull them this fall to reduce their spreading now and next spring. 

    Tree and Shrubs
    Shorter days and falling temperatures are prompting deciduous trees and shrubs to drop leaves and prepare for winter dormancy.  Limit fertilization in fall, as nitrogen stimulates useless late-season growth and delays dormancy.

    Do continue to water trees and shrubs through fall, sending them into winter with ample moisture.  It also will be necessary to apply water every three to four weeks throughout the winter.  Dry soil kills roots and puts stress on trees and shrubs.   Water when temperatures are above freezing and when the soil is not frozen.   Apply water early in the day so plants will have time to absorb moisture before soil might freeze at night.

    Of course, if you don't feel like doing any of this work you can contact Pemberton Garden Services and let is take care of it for you.

    Best of luck and happy fall.

    Mark Saidnawey
    Pemberton Garden Services

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  13.   

    The Dog Days of Summer are here, the temps in the 80's and 90's, and the only relief is a welcome spotty thunderstorm here and there. Certainly not enough to keep the gardens thriving in the heat. Believe it or not, excessive heat can damage many plants, even tropicals that are used to being in the semi-shade of the forest floor like many smaller palms.
    If you followed our advice last month, your garden is weed-free or as close to weed-free as it will get for the rest of the season! You've put down a good layer of mulch, which is now helping your plants' roots stay cool during the hottest days of the summer. 

    In August, water is the name of the gardening game in New England.
    Take Note: Water deeply and less often. Taking the garden hose out daily for 10 minutes to spray water on your plants in the garden if anything is doing more harm than good. Sounds counterintuitive, right? Let's look at the situation from the plants' perspective.   Plant roots are at a minimum, 1/2 inch below the surface, and in the case of some vegetables like tomatoes, may have roots 6-10 inches below the surface. A good soaking rain by mother nature drops about 1 inch per hour, enough to help out the top-rooted plants. That means you would have to stand over your plants for an hour with the hose just to reach down a few inches at best in the soil. If you simply spray the plants quickly and move on, the only thing you're doing is inviting mold, mildew and disease to take hold.

    So what's the best way to water your garden?



    Mimic mother nature and water deeply and slowly so all the water drains into the soil. An old-fashioned sprinkler is your best friend here, and you should water only once or twice a week for about 2- 3 hours (or 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches)each time. The water will soak deeply into the soil, your plants will get the water they need along with the drying out period inbetween (they need that too so their roots won't rot), and best of all, you simply turn on the sprinkler once a week (early morning is best) for a couple of hours and you're free to do other things with your day!

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  14. Bagged Potting Mixes and Garden Soils


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    Potted growing media with perlite, fertilizer prills and polymer gel
    There are many types of bagged potting mixes and garden soils available. Some are intended to be used in the ground to supplement or fill areas for gardens. Other products are intended for plants growing in containers and pots. It is important to read the label before purchasing to learn the intended use for the product.
    Garden soil contains minerals, organic matter, air and water. Mineral-based soils alone are not recommended for container plants because in containers, soil becomes very compacted and saturated with water, limiting air space, which is necessary for plant roots. Unpasteurized soil is a source for weeds, insects and disease organisms.
    Potting mixes intended for plants in containers and pots retain moisture, provide air space for roots, and are free from weed seeds, insects and diseases. Potting mixes, also called soilless mixes or soilless media, usually contain combinations of peat moss, pine bark, coir, perlite and vermiculite. Some composts are also intended for container use.

    Components of potting mix for pots and containers

    Peat moss is a plant harvested primarily from Canadian peat bogs and some bogs in the northern United States. Peat moss decomposes very slowly, retains moisture in the potting mix while providing a balance of air space and water for healthy growing roots. Peat is acidic (low pH) and limestone is usually added to the mix to neutralize the acidic reaction and balance the pH. Peat moss often makes up 30-80% of potting mixes. Peat moss by itself is difficult to wet, so wetting agents are added to the mix to make it wet easier.
    Sphagnum peat moss is the young or live portion of the plant. It is sold as green and living, or brown and dried, and is used for plants requiring moist growing mediums while providing good aeration. It is often dried and milled in seed starting mixes.
    Bark products are ground and/or partially composted by-products of the timber industry. This is usually a less expensive alternative to peat moss. Bark products have good aeration properties but they dry out quicker than peat moss. There are different properties associated with the specific types of bark. Barks should not be used in starting seedling because they immobilize nitrogen.
    Composts are sold for in-ground gardens and some for potting mixes. Composts may not be consistent from batch to batch and can be unpredictable in physical and chemical properties. When used in containers, some composts have high levels of nutrients and will burn plant roots and have low air porosity. In gardens, composts are best mixed with existing garden soil.
    Perlite is small white irregular shaped, volcanic rock that was crushed and heated. The heating causes it to expand. It is non-toxic, sterile and odorless. Perlite is used to improve drainage and aeration.
    Vermiculite is very light, greyish puffy substance that forms when mica chips are heated. It contains some potassium, magnesium and calcium that will slowly become available. It is used to increase moisture and nutrient retention in mixes since it can also hold onto fertilizer for a period of time - helping to keep nutrients around the roots of your plants instead of washing out the bottom of the pot.
    Coir is reddish-brown fibers that are harvested from coconut husks, a by-product of coconut fiber industry. It is used in potting mixes for containers in place of peat moss. Coir is easier to re-wet after drying than peat moss.
    Styrofoam is sometimes used as an inexpensive substitute for perlite. Beads of Styrofoam are used to aerate potting mixes and serve as a space filler. Styrofoam is lightweight, float to the surface when watered and can blow away when pots dry out. Also, unlike perlite, styrofoam will compact over time.
    Fertilizer starter charge and continuous fertilizer
    A “starter charge” of fertilizer on the label indicates that there is a minimal amount of fertilizer in the potting mix. Most starter charges are gone from the potting soil after watering two to three times.
    A continuous fertilizer (controlled-release, time-released or slow release) in the bag indicates fertilizer “prills” are incorporated with the mix. Prills are small and round and evenly distributed throughout the mix. The prills are water soluble fertilizer that is encased in a semi-permeable resin coating. When they come in contact with water, small amounts of nutrients are released into the soil for use by the plant over a period of time, usually several weeks. So, each time the soil is watered, the plants are getting "automatically" fertilized. The rate of nutrient release for most of these fertilizers is regulated by temperature. The warmer the temperature the faster nutrients are released. Look for the round fertilizer “prills” in the potting mix. Squeezing the prills can indicate if a fertilizer has been depleted. If the prills are empty, the fertilizer has been released. When the initial fertilizer has been depleted, re-apply controlled-release fertilizer or use water-soluble fertilizer to continue to fertilize plants. 
    Bagged potting mix containing slow release fertilizer must be stored dry. If the potting mix gets wet, the fertilizer in the potting mix can pre-release inside the bag and become concentrated which will burn plant roots when used. Dry, bagged potting mix will be light and fluffy.
    Wetting agents
    Wetting agents are chemical substance that increases the spreading and penetrating properties of a liquid (ie. water) by lowering its surface tension. These are used in potting mixes to enable water to thoroughly wet the mix. Tip: Moisten a potting medium with warm water before using to have uniform moisture throughout the container. Plants potted in dry medium and then watered will have inconsistent moisture levels in their root zones.
    Organic mixes may contain yucca extract as a wetting agent.
    Moisture retaining treatments
    Some potting mixes contain moisture retaining polymer gels, crystals or chemicals that absorbs water. These help to reduce the need for watering over the growing season. A little extra care will be necessary to avoid overwatering when the temperatures are still cool since the soil will be slow to dry out.  The moisture holding ability of the soil breaks down over the season, usually by mid to late summer. When hydrated, water retaining gels look like clear chunks of glass, but are soft to touch. 
    Specialty potting soils
    While the all-purpose, general type potting mixes will work fine for almost all annual flowers and mixed containers, there are some crops for which specialty mixes might perform better such as orchids. Orchids require excellent drainage and most general potting soils hold too much water and lack enough air space. Components of mixes for orchids may vary, however, coarse materials are often used to allow for plenty of air movement through the medium.
    Also succulents and cacti, require better drainage than annual flowers and in many cases prefer clay pots as well. Many succulent collectors use a regular potting mix and mix it with 50% sand, which makes the mix very heavy, but very fast draining.
    Summary: Rules of Thumb for Choosing a Potting Mix for Pots and Containers
    1. Potting mix bag should be light, fluffy and DRY. Avoid bags that are saturated with water or seem to be heavy and compact. This is especially important for potting mixes that contain fertilizer prills (often labeled as continuous feed, controlled release, timed release or slow release).
    2. Look for a potting mix that contains peat moss, pine bark or coir and perlite or vermiculite.
    3. Caution should be taken when using a compost-based mix. A soil test is advised.
    4. Fertilizer may be in the mix in the form of a "starter charge" or “continuous feed” formulation.  Adjust your fertilization practices accordingly.
    5. Potting mixes also contain a wetting agent to make the soilless media wet easier. Organic potting mixes may contain yucca extract, a natural wetting agent.
    6. Potting mixes may contain moisture retaining amendments such as gels.

    Components of bagged amendments for in-garden and landscapes

    Composts – See Potting Mixes
    In landscapes, composts are best mixed with existing garden soil.
    Manure products are intended for use in-ground gardens but not intended for containers. Manures contain a form of nitrogen that will burn plants in containers. Manure products are best when mixed with soil at a rate of about one part manure to two parts soil. Many manure related products contain sand, which makes them heavy for use in containers.
    Mulch is usually a raw wood product (bark, wood chunks, shredded wood, etc.). It is intended to be used on the surface of the soil to maintain soil moisture, prevent water from evaporating and suppress weeds. Un-composted wood products, take available nitrogen from the soil as they break down (decompose). Use mulch products on top of the soil in your garden and landscape where they are intended to be. 

    Quality of bagged soil and mixes

    Does the bag feel heavy and compact or light and fluffy?  Often, when a bag of garden soil or potting mix is very heavy, it is either water soaked or it contains too much sand.
    If potting mix becomes soaked it can begin to break down in the bag, become compact, lose air space and result in poor roots and plant growth. Mixes that contain controlled fertilizer prills may pre-release fertilizer into the mix causing young plants to burn.
    Coarse, horticultural grade sand provides anchorage and air space and is used as inexpensive filler. Unless growing cacti, or used to keep pots from tipping over, sand is not desirable for most plants.

    Fungal growth on potting soil

    Fungi and slime molds occasionally appear on the surface of growing media. These organisms will not hurt the plants or roots. They are saprophytic fungi involved in the decay of organic matter and are more likely to occur when the growing media remains wet for prolonged periods of time. Under normal outdoor growing conditions the fungi are usually short-lived. To eliminate mold, spread the media out on clean surface to dry it and expose it to sunlight, then re-bag or put it into a clean container when it is dry.
    Resources
    Tina Smith and Dr. Douglas Cox, UMass Extension
    Last Updated: 
    Aug 3, 2015
    Interest Area: 
    Home Lawn & Garden

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  15. Effective control of animal pests is possible though your success will depend on your timing, method, and perseverance. A control that works for your neighbor, or that worked for you last year, may not work this time around. You may need to try a variety of methods and devices and, if first you don't succeed, try again. Remind yourself that animals may be clever and smart, but humans 
    are smarter!


    Here are some common animal pests found in the Northeast and some recommendations for control. None of these are fool proof, but all are worth a try to control pesky animals.

    RABBITS: 
    Rabbits are a serious problem not just in the Northeast, but throughout the entire country. They live in grassy areas and thickets, feeding on vegetables, flowers, and tree bark during winter. They are active during the day year round in most areas. Your best bet is to fence them out with chicken wire 
    or hardware cloth cages placed higher than snow level. Inflatable snakes or 
    repellents, such as those used for deer, also may help.         MICE AND VOLES: 
    Although these rodents look similar and cause similar damage, they are only distantly related. Both live in grassy areas and leaf mulch and travel in tunnels. They feed on any vegetation, including bulbs and tubers, as well as bark on young trees and shrubs. Exclude them with barriers or trap at main runways with peanut butter bait or vitamin D (death results from calcium imbalance). Other repellents such as castor oil may help, as will cats or dogs.
           
    If using a common poison bait trap or packet, be aware that cats or other animals may be attracted to the trap to feed on the bait, or birds and other large animals may be inadvertently killed by feeding on a poisoned small animal.
             
    MOLES: 
    Moles live in tunnels that, while helping to aerate soil, also provide passageways for other animals and may cause excessive soil disturbance and plant upheaval. Although moles help by eating insects like grubs, they also hurt by eating earthworms. Control them by eliminating the insects they feed on 
    or trap as you would voles.
             
    CHIPMUNKS: 
    This rodent lives in tunnels or burrows and is adept at running up trees and shrubs as well as along the ground. Chipmunks feed on seeds, nuts, fruits, roots, bulbs, and despite their tiny size they can uproot new plantings. Trap them using peanut butter, oats, nut meats, or sunflower seeds.  Spray repellents on bulbs, or place jagged shells or stones in the holes when you plant bulbs. Fine-mesh plant cages will keep them out. Or get a cat or two.
             
    TREE SQUIRRELS: 
    Squirrels are an occasional problem as they like to nest in trees and will feed on fruit, nuts, insects, bark, and seeds. Protect new plantings with cages. Squirrels can be trapped and released using sunflower seeds, peanut butter, and raisins as bait.
            
          GROUNDHOGS (WOODCHUCKS): 
    These rodents (related to rats and squirrels) cause only occasional problems in the northern states, mainly to herbaceous plants. They live in burrows with two or more openings with mounds at entrances. You can find them feeding in early morning and late afternoon on grass, tender vegetables and flowers-- especially pencil-thick stems like phlox, and occasionally on bark.  They don’t “chuck” on wood, this name coming from a native American name for this animal.
          
    Your best bet is to trap them live (if legal) or fence them out with a three-foot high fence. Bury several inches in the ground to prevent them from tunneling under. You also can repel them with taste sprays applied to desirable flowers or by placing oily substances at hole entrances. If all else fails, you could insert poison gas cartridges in their holes and cover to kill.  Don’t use the latter 
    around buildings, though, which they like to make holes alongside or under.
           
    Live traps with release of animals a distance away may not be the best alternative as you may catch non-target animals.  For example, you may catch domestic cats, or even skunks.  Your community or state also may have regulations against relocating certain wild animals such as woodchucks. Be 
    sure to know your local wildlife laws before you act. If trapping large live animals, use caution to prevent being bitten as many carry communicable diseases such as rabies.
           
    Snap or leg hold traps are banned in most areas, though even if permitted they are not a good choice as it is a cruel and inhumane way for any animal to die. There's also a good chance that you could catch a pet or worse, injure a child. Shooting is usually not permitted, and especially not in populated areas. You may choose to hire a wildlife specialist to catch and dispose of such large 
    animals.
            
    SKUNKS: 
    Skunks live in rural, wooded areas where they feed on insects, small rodents, fruits, berries, and other vegetables. They are actually more of a nuisance because of their smell than from eating flowers, although they can carry rabies. Fence them out or trap (if legal) as you would groundhogs. If 
    trapping live, bait with sardines or cat food. Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye goggles when handling skunks, and cover the cage with a tarp when 
    transporting.
            
    RACCOONS: Like skunks, raccoons generally are not a problem in flower gardens although if you have corn, be on the lookout for these masked marauders. They live in wooded rural or lightly populated areas in natural shelters such as hollow logs or near water. They feed on insects, small animals, grains (especially corn), seeds including bird seeds, vegetables, and other plant 
    materials. Keep them out with a wire fence (about four feet high with another foot buried in the ground) or electric fencing, or trap (if legal) as you would skunks.
             
    DEER
    Deer are a serious problem throughout the country, even in populated areas. Being quite intelligent, with few natural predators and strict control laws, they can be difficult to control. Deer prefer wooded areas and tall grass and thickets. They eat most plants and the bark of woody plants.
           
    Many deer controls are available, including various taste and smell repellents (deer have a keen sense of smell); light or noise emitters (must be moved often as deer are smart and learn quickly); or an electric fence baited with peanut butter (one taste won't kill, but will deter deer). A key with such repellents is to move them, or rotate among various ones, every few days.
           
    The best and often only solution, particularly if many deer and they are hungry, is exclusion with three-wire triangular or slanted fences, or eight- to ten-foot high deer fences of woven wire mesh or heavy fishing line strung at two-foot intervals up the posts. If using the latter, flag the lines as deer can't see well and will try jumping through. For narrow or small gardens, a lower fence 5 to 6 feet high usually works as deer are afraid of getting trapped inside.
             
    DOGS
    Dogs can devastate gardens by running and romping. They also dig up soil and plantings and leave droppings. Keep them out with fences or repel with plant sprays designed specifically to deter dogs. Tie up your own dog or use invisible fencing to keep it from getting into areas you want to protect. Ask neighboring dog owners to keep their pets out of your yard.
             
    CATS
    While cats usually are good at keeping small rodent populations in check, they can be a problem if they dig up new plantings. Use repellents or lay chicken wire on new beds.
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  16. Each month, there’s so much that could be done in the garden that it’s hard to know what must be done. So I’ve broken the May gardening tasks into three categories. If you only have time for a few things, focus on the ‘Must Do’ tasks. Add in the ‘Should Do’ and ‘Nice to Do’ tasks as time allows.

    Plants at their best in May

    Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s Mantle)
    Allium (ornamental onions)
    Azalea
    Calendula (pot marigold)
    Clematis montana
    Dianthus (pinks)
    Digitalis (foxglove)
    Geranium (perennial varieties)
    Iris (Siberian and Japanese iris)
    Lilac
    Lupine
    Peony
    Oriental poppy
    Rose
    Weigela
    Wisteria

    Must Do

    There’s really not much that absolutelymust be done this month; it all depends on what you want out of your garden.
    • Mow the lawn regularly, cutting off no more than 1/3 at a time.
    • Weed – You’ll see this gardening chore appearing on the list every month! To make it easier, check out our review of the Best Weeding Tools.
    • Watch out for insect pests – May is when many insects start to emerge in large numbers. If you notice an infestation, take action immediately. One particular pest to watch for is the bright red lily leaf beetle which, if left unchecked, can quickly decimate your lilies. Simply crush the beetles or knock them into a can of soapy water.
    Should Do
    • Spread mulch – Some people recommend mulching in early April before weeds emerge. I prefer to wait until May, when the soil has warmed up and plants are growing well, before spreading about 2 inches of compost or leaf mold on all exposed soil. Yes, you’ll have to weed first, but I think plants develop better when the soil is allowed to warm, rather than staying cool when covered with mulch in April.
    • Deadhead rhododendrons and lilacs – To encourage blooms for next year, remove old flowers from rhododendrons and lilacs.
    • Plant gladioli, dahlias, and summer bulbs – For information on how to do it right, see our Resource article on Planting and Growing Bulbs.
    • Plant containers and window boxes – Plant containers of annual flowers in mid-May, fertilize well, water, and watch them grow.
    • Prune early blooming shrubs – Immediately after blooming, prune shrubs like rhododendrons and azaleas to shape them and reduce size. If you’re looking for a good online resource about pruning, visit the Complete Pruning Guide.
    • Plant and sow vegetables and annuals – Most vegetables and annuals can be planted this month. Don’t wait too long to sow vegetables with a longer time to maturity, such as sweet corn or beans, or they may not fully mature before the fall frosts arrive.  You may want to hold off on planting tomatoes and peppers until the end of the month or early June when the soil has warmed up.
    • Pinch back mums – Pinching encourages stocky, branching growth with more flowers.
    • Spray roses – Many roses have problems with blackspot and require regular treatment with horticultural oil and/or fungicide. A
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  17. Plants: How to Care for Roses spacerspacer          spacerspacer
    spacer
    Total Rose Care

    See Rose Families

    spacer
    AARS Roses
    Antique Roses
    Climbing Roses
    David Austin Roses
    Drift Roses
    Easy Elegance Roses
    Floribunda Roses
    Flower Carpet Roses
    Grandiflora Roses
    Hybrid Tea Roses
    Knock Out Roses
    Landscape Roses
    Rugosa Beach Roses
    spacer
    Fertilization
    Roses are heavy feeders, requiring a constant supply of nutrients to sustain growth and bloom production. A well-fed rose will reach its maximum height; produce abundant flowers as well as resisting attack from diseases and insects. Roses require three primary nutrients-nitrogen (N) for green growth, phosphorous (P) for flower growth and potassium (K) for root growth. These nutrients are available from either organic (plant or animal derived) fertilizers, or inorganic (synthetic or inorganic) fertilizers.
    Organic sources of fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, alfalfa meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, manure, or bat guano are all valuable sources of nutrients for roses. However, there are many organic prepared rose foods, such as Espoma and Rose Tone.

    Insects and Diseases
    The key to growing healthy, disease free roses is to select disease resistant varieties and to practice good horticulture. It is essential to grow your roses in at least six to eight hours of sun each day, provide optimum circulation and water as well as feeding them on a regular basis. Addressing pest management with natural products before an insect or disease gets out of control does not affect the natural balance of the garden. However, if you are looking for exhibition quality roses, you will have to use chemical sprays in order to prevent insects or diseases from becoming a problem.

    Pruning Basics
    Pruning enhances the shape of your plant, ensures a vigorous first bloom and encourages new growth.
    It's good to prune roses back in the spring, after the last frost. Usually late April in the Boston area. If you are pruning old roses, prune them after their bloom time since they bloom on old wood.
    Always prune out dead wood and suckers (sprouts from below the bud union). After that, remove older woody canes and then thin, if necessary, to ensure that the center of the bush is open for good air circulation. When finished pruning, remove any remaining debris from around the bush. (Do not use in compost pile)

    Total Rose CareCaned Type Roses (Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras)
    Tea roses, what we call Exhibition, Show or Cutting roses, make long-stemmed individual blooms. They grow tall and upright, in the 4-6' range. Grandiflora's, also in this group, are nearly identical to the teas but cluster-bloomers. Floribunda's also fall into this pruning group. Their flowers are similar in look to the teas but clustered like the grandiflora's and grow about two-thirds the size of the others, usually in the 2 ½ - 3 ½' range.
    Caned roses are treated alike in regards to pre-spring pruning. Cut the whole plant back to 12". Next, visually choose 3 or 4 fat, fresh looking canes to retain. Ideally these should be away from the center of the plant and away from one another, making for maximum air and sun and minimal crowding. Cut all other canes and side branches as far back to the ground as you can. You should be left with 3 to 4 lone single separated canes about 12" high.
    Shrubby Type Roses
    Shrubs (shrub and hedge roses) grow dense and twiggy without the typical fat and upright canes. They branch heavily and grow 2-5' tall. Blooms are clustered, smaller and less sophisticated in form. Groundcover's are shrub roses too, only lower and spreading. Rugosa's (Seaside or Beach roses) are similar to shrubs in that they are shrubby-caned and many-branched, forming a hedge.Total Rose Care
    For maximum blooms, pruning should be more of a light grooming than severe. One-time bloomers should be pruned immediately after blooming while repeat bloomers in the early spring. If your shrub becomes lanky over time, you will need to prune some of the oldest canes to promote new growth. There should be a balance between new growth and the old growth.

    Climbing Type Roses
    Known as Ramblers, Climbers, Trellis and Pillar roses, these don't climb via tendrils or wrapping, so they need to be attached to a structure.
    A general guide is minimal pruning for four years, then a hard pruning the fifth year. If there is a decline in blooms or the rose appears to decline, the next winter is time for the hard pruning. For most years, just cut out dead wood and do a little thinning so branches don't crowd and cover one another. Then for the hard prune year, go in and remove the oldest looking main stems and severely thin.
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  18. When planning a landscaping renovation, most home-owners are bound to face a common dilemma. To Sod, or to Seed, that is the question? Unless you have a background in landscaping or other extensive experience, these options may leave you wondering which will be the fastest and most cost-effective way to go. Although both methods will eventually lead to similar results, a beautifully manicured luscious lawn, the path to achieving this diverges right from the start! Whether you choose to lay sod in your lawn or scatter seeds, the decision ultimately depends on the circumstances of your outdoor renovation.




    Read this excerpt from The Daily Green:
    If money were no object, we’d probably all put down sod, which is fully grown grass that gives us a nearly instant lawn. Seeding a lawn from scratch can take several months to fully fill in, and any number of environmental challenges – wind, pelting, rain, sweltering heat, a drought – can make new lawns difficult. As for value, seed is still usually the best bet; initial costs of sod lawns make them 10 to 20 times more costly than seed.

    Laying Sod
    Sod is your best bet if you are limited on time. After laying sod, you instantly have a green lawn! Although the initial labor involved is a bit more intensive than scattering seeds, the benefits are seen much faster than other methods. The downside to sod lawns is the cost. As stated above, sod lawns are noted for being much more expensive than see lawns; something you might want to take into account! In summation, if you’re not on a budget and willing to put in a good days work, sod will be the ideal method for your landscaping project!

    Seeding Your Lawn
    Contrasting the exorbitant prices that are associated with sod, seeds are only a fraction of the cost and often readily available. Furthermore, seeds are available in a wide variety of species, making seeded lawns ideal for home-owners searching for a particular type of grass. In warmer climates, it’s best to begin a seeding project during the spring or summer months to see the best results. On the other hand, seeded lawns will take much longer to grow and they also require much more attention as your lawn matures. If you are the gardening type, this could be a fun project for you to take on as extensive watering and upkeep is included in the job description!

    Other Helpful Tips to Growing a New Lawn
    Whether you choose to go with a seeded lawn or take a weekend to lay sod, the success or failure of a new lawn hinges on the same factors. Regular watering is the key to growing a new lawn. In fact, lack of water is the most common cause of new lawn failure!

    Moving forward, soil preparation is the key to creating the best environment to grow thick roots that will yield healthy blades of grass. If you have segments of weeds popping up, think about applying an herbicide to kill the entire lawn and the weeds. This will give you a fresh new start. Also, be sure to till the soil prior to laying sod or seeding to make sure nutrients are mixed into the soil. This will provide the ideal conditions for your new lawn!
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  19. For this New Englander it has been the toughest February I can ever remember.  Record breaking amounts of snow for one month, the 2nd coldest month in history and 2 little kids trapped indoors for what seems like forever.  Wow.  I am glad February is OVER.

    During the blizzard of 78 when I was a kid I loved loved all the snow.  Now, many years later I find it nothing but a big pain and now just a way to prolong us seeing green and the signs of spring.  How much damage has all this snow caused to our gardens and yards.  Once all this snow melts we will find out for sure but I expect there to be wide spread damage to our ornamental trees, evergreen shrubs, roses and who knows what else.  We will all have to just wait and see.

    Our Trucks buried in the Garden Center waiting for the snow to melt
    March is upon us and both our garden center and our gardening crews are anxious to start another season.  We usually get started by setting up our Garden Center in early March, putting out the pottery, getting in our mulches, soils, tools and gardening accessories and by the end of the month our Garden Services teams start our clients spring clean ups/prep in early April.   It is still our hope but it all depends on when all this snow melts.  I for one am praying for warm days and lots of melting snow.     With all this cabin fever I am sure that once the warmth comes, and it will, everyone will be ready to go 100 mph and get the gardening season going.   Once the snow pack gets to a height where you can actually go out in your back yard you should begin to assess your shrubs and see what kind of damage there is.  If you chose to try and remove some of then snow from your shrubs be careful, you may snap some still brittle/frozen branches.  I for one suggest waiting and letting the March sun do the melting.
    Thinking of warmer days

    When spring does finally come and the snow is gone it will be time to turn our attention and passion back to gardening.  For us at Pemberton Garden Services we are eager and ready to begin cleaning up and getting our clients gardens in order for another growing season.  Check out our website for design ideas and new ways to make your garden and yard just a little nicer.  If you are thinking you may want our help in preparing your gardens reach out to us via email and we can set up a plan.

    Be patient.  It is almost over :)


    Here is our "Spring Clean Up/Prep" Menu too for ideas or options of services that we provide at PGS.
    Spring Clean Up/Garden 
    Check List


    - Rake/thatch all grassy lawn areas to encourage new growth.


    - Rake and remove any and all winter debris and leaves from entire property.


    - Prune any trees, shrubs or other plants that may have suffered any winter breakage/damage.


    - Cut back any herbaceous perennials to encourage new spring growth.


    - Sweep clear any patios, walkways, driveway, front steps, etc.. of sand and winter debris.


    - Add fresh organic compost to garden beds. (optional, as needed)


    - Add organic fertilizers to trees, shrubs and perennials. (optional, but strongly suggested)


    - Add Lawn fertilizer (if applicable) Pre-Emergent weed control. (optional)


    - Add fresh layer of mulch to all garden beds and flower borders.  (optional, type to use TBD)


    - Assist clients with special “spring set up” projects.  ie. patio furniture, move pottery, etc..

    - Plant spring blooming annuals and perennials.

    A front garden creation by Pemberton Garden Services
    If you have any questions reach out to us:

    Pemberton Garden Services, Inc.
    2225 Massachusetts Ave.
    Cambridge, MA 02140 Info@PembertonGardening.com




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  20. 1.  Starting a Garden

    Where to begin? First you need to choose the location in your yard.  The amount of sun exposure and access to water will play a big part in what plants you'll be able to grow.
    Another good place to begin a new garden is with the soil. This may not be the most fun part of gardening, but as the saying goes: "Feed the soil and the plants will take care of themselves. You'll need to access what type of soil you have and what, if anything it needs. You can get your soil tested for a nominal fee at your local Cooperative Extension office.
    Choosing Plants for a New Garden - Photo: © Marie Iannotti

    2.  Choosing Plants

    Selecting plants is one of the toughest gardening tasks, simply because there are so many from which to choose. Key things to keep in mind are your sunlight exposure, hardiness zone and your soil type. But when push comes to trowel, what it really comes down to is what plants do you like and how much time can you put into caring for them. 
    • Drought Tolerant Plants
    • Easy Care, Low Maintenance Perennials
    • Shade Plants
    Want to get started on a smaller scale? Why not try container gardening or focusing on one particular type of plant, like roses? 
    Designing a New Garden - Photo: © Marie Iannotti

    3.  Garden Design

    Designing a garden is an ongoing process and half the fun of gardening. While there are so called design rules, like always planting in odd numbers, there are no garden police to enforce them. Make your garden whatever you envision. Most gardens are a mix of plants - annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs - that are always growing and changing. Even the best thought out design will eventually need editing. Even so, there are some basic principles that will get you started off right.
    And here's a tip: Choosing some type of theme, whether it's a color scheme, a style or a group of plants, will not only help give your garden a sense of cohesion, it will help make your design choices easier. 
    Gardening Tools - Photo: © Marie Iannotti

    4.  Garden Tools

    There are all kinds of tools and gadgets designed to make gardening easier and more enjoyable. There are a few that should be in every gardener's shed, like good pruners, but most are optional and as you gain experience you will find yourself reaching for the same favorite tools again and again. So don't go overboard buying tools right away. But when you know what you like, it's worth it to invest in the best you can afford. Good tools are more comfortable to use and last a long time. 
    Maintaining a New Garden - Photo: © Marie Iannotti

    5.  Maintenance - Caring for Your Garden

    There is always something to do in the garden: planting, staking, dividing, cutting back and weeding. Some plants are more demanding than others, but garden maintenance is a given. It can also be the most enjoyable part of gardening, because you get to observe the changes your garden goes through. By regularly working in your garden, you'll stay ahead of problems and learn the seasonal rhythms of your plants. You will also learn which plants do well in your garden, which you love and which you'd just as soon dig out and give away. Maintenance is the real essence of gardening. 

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  21.  17 Flowers That Look Like Something Else...

    The flowers below all have two things in common: They're beautiful, and they remind the human eye of something else entirely. These are flowers I would love to have in my garden or in my house, they are just stunning works of art by nature.

    Monkey Face Orchid (Dracula Simia)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Naked Man Orchid (Orchis Italica)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Hooker’s Lips (Psychotria Elata)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Dancing Girls (Impatiens Bequaertii)  ver
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Laughing Bumble Bee Orchid (Ophrys bomybliflora)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Swaddled Babies (Anguloa Uniflora)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Parrot Flower (Impatiens Psittacina)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Snap Dragon Seed Pod (Antirrhinum)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Flying Duck Orchid (Caleana Major)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    An orchid that looks remarkably like a tiger
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Happy Alien (Calceolaria Uniflora)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    and his friends...
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Angel Orchid (Habenaria Grandifloriformis)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    Dove Orchid Orchid (Peristeria Elata)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    White Egret Orchid (Habenaria Radiata)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    The Darth Vader (Aristolochia Salvadorensis)
    flowers                                                          that look like                                                          something                                                          else

    An Orchid That Looks Like A Ballerina
    flowers that look like something else


    NATURE IS AMAZING & ASTONISHING....
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  22. Seed Starting Indoor... Time to get growing!


    As winter continues to move along it is time to start planning what this years crops for your garden and
    Pemberton Farms has all the seeds and supplies you need to get started.   This year we have decided to continue to carry seeds from a wonderful family owned company called Botanical Interests.    


    Below is some great helpful tips for selecting and starting seeds indoors, and outside.  Of course, when the weather permits.
       
     Starting Seeds Indoors by Botanical Interests
    Whatever your motivation is for starting seeds indoors, the process can be fun and simple. When you understand what factors influence a seed you'll be able to create a formula for success, and then repeat it again and again.

    LIGHT
    Light is one of the most important factors to creating a healthy, strong seedling. There are some seeds, usually very tiny ones, which receive part of their signals to germinate from light. These seeds should be only lightly covered or sprinkled directly on top of moist soil. Some seeds, usually larger ones, can have their germination inhibited by exposure to light. It is vital that these seeds are sown deep enough to be in complete darkness until germinated. Your Botanical Interests seed packet will have any special sowing instructions you need to consider.
    Ample light is also one on the major factors influencing the physical strength of seedlings. Sufficiently intense light of the right duration will make a shorter, stronger seedling than weaker light sources. A basic and adequate setup can be as simple as four fluorescent tubes, two cool and two warm spectrum, hung no more than three inches from the top of your seedlings. A timer will help you consistently deliver 14 hours or more of light per day.

    TEMPERATURE
    Temperature is the factor in the life of a plant, especially germination, which governs the rate at which things happen. While the ideal germination temperature for some plants may be higher or lower, normal household temperatures are usually within the range that encourages germination in a vast majority of commonly grown plants. If temperatures are too low, germination may slow or stop entirely. There are some plants that germinate at a higher ideal temperature. Many of these are tropical plants grown as annual flowers and vegetables in cooler climates. They include but are not limited to: asparagus, begonia, celosia, impatiens, petunia, tomato, watermelon, cucumber, eggplant, pepper, pumpkin, zucchini, and melons. All of these plants germinate at an ideal temperature above 70° F. You can increase germination percentage and speed by applying heat to your soil. You can do this by placing trays and pots near a heat vent, radiator, or other gentle heat source. You can also buy a specially designed heat mat made for this purpose at your garden center.

    WATER

    There is more water in a plant than any other constituent. The way you apply it becomes one of the most important factors in determining the overall health of your seedlings. When a seed comes in contact with water it begins to absorb it. This signals to the plant that it is time to come out of dormancy, germinate, and grow. The plants are fragile in the early stages of life. At this time, consistent moisture is vital. When starting seed indoors, they depend on you to create and maintain the right amount of moisture in their surroundings. After sowing, seeds should be watered gently, but thoroughly. If your seeds are tiny, or are to be sown shallow, you may want to wet your soil before sowing. Moisture should be maintained consistently after the first watering, but never to the point of soggy soil. Saturated soil can create conditions that will rot your seeds before they germinate. You can cover your seeds with plastic wrap, removing it after seedlings emerge. There are also capillary mats that supply water, via wicking, to the bottom of containers. This is a good choice if your containers are relatively shallow. If your sown seeds are allowed to dry out too much after germination, they may die.
    Now that you know what a growing seed requires you can try starting some, or all, of your garden indoors. The best place to start is with your Botanical Interests seed packet. The back and inside of the packet contains all the information you need to you plan your garden and start your seeds. First, read the packet and determine if the seed you've chosen should be started indoors, and if so, when. Next you'll notice that the packet tells you how deep to sow the seed. Following the guidelines above, assemble your containers and soil, and then sow your seed. After watering your seed, vigilance and the right temperature will produce a seedling that immediately needs to be placed in a very well lit environment. Now it is time to carefully grow your seedling into a viable and healthy transplant.

    For more information you can contact us or reach out to the folks at Botanical Interests...

    Enjoy!

    Mark Saidnawey
    Pemberton Garden
    2225 Massachusetts Ave.
    Cambridge, Ma 02140
    Info@PembertonGardening.com 
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  23. Caring for your Christmas Tree...

    Caring for your Christmas tree is much like caring for a fresh bouquet of flowers. Both should have a fresh cut on the stem, should be placed in water as soon as possible, and should never be allowed to dry out.

    Prior to putting your tree in a stand make a fresh cut straight across the trunk 1/4" to 1/2" from the base before placing it in water.  Place the tree in water as soon as possible if you can not set it up right away store the tree in a cool shaded area in a bucket of water. To display a tree indoors, the tree should be placed in a sturdy stand of appropriate size with adequate water holding capacity, generally one quart of water per inch of stem diameter. Check the base of the tree daily to assure that the level of water does not go below the base of the tree.

    The tree must never be allowed to dry out, as a seal will form over the base of the tree. If this should happen, it would be necessary to make a new fresh cut across the trunk to allow the tree to take up moisture.


    When ready to display your tree, choose a place in your home away from heat sources (fireplaces, heaters, heating vents, etc.) A fresh cut tree is no more flammable than a wet leaf, and in fact less than 0.0004% trees are ignited in house fires yearly.  However, common sense dictates a few rules of caution. Inspect lights, cords, and connections prior to placing them on the tree to be sure that they are in good working order and are not frayed and always unplug lights when unattended.

    Christmas trees are biodegradable, which means that they may be reused and recycled. After Christmas, tree branches may be removed, chipped, and used as mulch. Many communities offer recycling and mulching programs. Check newspapers and the internet, or call your local county or city government to find recycling programs in your area.

    Perhaps you have chosen to purchase a live Christmas Tree that may be planted in your yard after the season and enjoyed for years to come. Note that live trees are bulky and heavy, and may be more difficult to transport to your home. Caring for a live Christmas tree is very much similar to caring for a fresh cut tree. Adequate water should be used to keep the soil damp, but not flooded, while in the container. They may be decorated in the same way as a fresh cut tree when displayed in the home. Then plant the tree as soon as possible after Christmas. To plant your live tree, tap the container to remove the tree, leaving the soil on the root system, and then backfill the soil removed from the hole around the root ball. Water daily initially, and stake the tree as needed to prevent wind tipping or damage.

    Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all...  Mark
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  24. Gardening Advice By the Month -November


    The leaves are pretty much gone now, the first frost has come and gone, but we still have 60-70 degree days before cold fronts pass through, bringing the much needed rain for our reservoirs and aquifers across New England. Time to sit back and relax... not yet, but almost!

    The name of the game in November is mulch, mulch and more mulch! Last month, we talked about mulching around tender plants and those susceptible to wind and cold damage. A good snowfall early in the season that stays put can usually do the job for us, but here in New England snowfalls have been sporadic and unpredictable. This leaves our plants exposed to the cold temperatures and howling winds and its just a good idea not to take a chance on the weather. Depending on La Nina or El Nino or any other of those ocean temperature patterns, the weather here swings wildly between frigid and temperate, with no guarantee of snow or snowmelt for that matter.


    If you have a chipper, pull it out and get chippin' -- leaves, branches, anything organic that can be used as mulch. Just be sure to not use any diseased matter from this year's growth. Mulching it and spreading it out will only increase the chance for it to reappear next year and even spread. Diseased plants should be either burned (if allowed in your area), or left out with refuse to be taken to a recycling center, far away from your garden. This is especially true of vegetables.
    Mulching should be done to about a depth of 2-3 inches, no more, no less. Leave a little room around the base of the plant to let a little air in as well. This way, the mulch can break down a little over the winter and you've got a headstart for preparing the garden for next year's growth.

    pot amaryllis to bloom in the winter around christmas

    Its really easy to force bulbs like paperwhite and amaryllis for holiday blooming!Now is the time to pot up some spring blooming bulbs for forcing indoors this winter. Good choices include hyacinth and paperwhites. Simply set them in a relatively shallow dish on a bed of pebbles. The bottom of the bulbs should just touch the water you place in the dish (for larger bulbs like hyacinth, sometimes it is easier to place the bulb in the neck of a small vase with the base of the bulb resting at the bottom of the neck. This provides extra support). Keep the water at a constant level and you will be rewarded with blooms in time for Christmas. Keep potting every couple of weeks for flowers all winter long! For amaryllis, simply place the bulb (large, about the size of softball, usually) in a pot about the same size as the bulb. It does NOT need a large pot or a lot of soil to bloom. Cover about two-thirds of the bulb with soil and water every few days. In about 4 weeks, you'll be rewarded with a 12-18 inch stem loaded with flowers on top.
    forcing bulbs inside for winter bloom daffodils hyacinths


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  25. Tips for protecting your trees and shrubs from winter damage

    Usually by the time you see winter damage on your trees and shrubs, it's too late to do anything about it. However, there are several things you can do before the winter to lower the risk of damage to the plants in your yard. Take the time to do these things now and save your self the money and energy of having to replace plants in the spring.
    Winter Damage

    1. Water

    By thoroughly watering your trees and shrubs until the ground freezes, your plants are more prepared to deal with the moisture loss that occurs during the winter. Plants like holly, azaleas, rhododendrons, and andromeda are most susceptible to winterkill because they have relatively larger leaves, and more surface area for evaporation to occur. Read our tips for watering »

    2. Use an anti-desiccant

    An anti-desiccant is a spray that adds a protective waxy coating to the tops and undersides of the leaves of broad-leaf evergreens to help slow water loss through the foliage during the winter. We recommend Wilt Stop by Bonide. It's best to apply anti-desiccants when daytime temperatures fall below 50° in late-fall.
    Wilt-stop

    3. Wrap shrubs in burlap

    Wrapping your trees and shrubs in burlap can help your plants in several ways. Like an anti-desiccant, burlap prevents water loss by keeping the foliage shaded, and out of direct sunlight. Additionally, burlap provides a barrier that keeps salt spray off plants near the road, and it prevents deer from making a meal out of your shrubs.

    4. Use mulch or salt-marsh hay

    Mulch and salt-marsh hay are useful for protecting the roots of your plants through the winter. They provide a layer of insulation that helps retain moisture and prevents roots from repeatedly freezing at night and thawing during the day when there is no snow cover.
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Cambridge, Ma, United States
Mark owner of Pemberton Garden Services Inc. and Pemberton Garden Center in Cambridge MA. Mark's life long gardening experiences have developed into owning one of the areas largest garden center, which later helped him create Pemberton Garden Services, as Mark puts it, "simply for the love of gardening". Mark has been featured on PBS’s Victory Garden and he currently appears, in season, on WBZ TV4 Boston as their gardening expert offering tips, design ideas and reports on the latest gardening trends. He also shares his love of gardening by writing for various national gardening publications and his own blog. With over 30 years experience in gardening and plant care his passion for what he does everyday shows. If that’s not enough, when not working you can usually find Mark tending to his own garden in Belmont which has been featured on many local garden tours.
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