Stainless steel is naturally corrosion-proof and needs no additional protective coating to maintain its gloss and usability. Saying that however, a certain amount of routine maintenance involving cleaning and washing may be required. Our mantra “stainless” not “stainfree” holds very true. In this respect, stainless steel is no different to other building materials such as glass, plastic or coloured steel, which also require maintenance during the installations life.

The following guidelines are general and given as advice for best practice when dealing with the corrosion properties of stainless steel.

Maintaining and Cleaning Stainless Steel

The frequency with which indoor stainless steel surfaces should be cleaned is actually no different than other materials. The surfaces should be washed before accumulated dirt or fingermarks become obvious which will also make the cleaning as easy as possible and minimize the risk of leaving marks behind or affecting the surface finish.

If stainless steel is used outdoors, it is automatically exposed to a more aggressive environment. For example:

• A maritime/coastal environment
• An industrial atmosphere
• Road salts (winter)
• Air pollution

All of these environments can cause brown spots to appear. A general rule would be to clean the stainless steel surfaces as often as the buildings windows. Depending upon the degree of contamination form the surroundings, an interval of six to twelve months is recommended for light contamination and three to six months for more severe conditions. Cleaning agents containing phosphoric acid can be used for removing this type of staining.

Cleaning Agent

A damp cloth is usually sufficient for wiping away light dirt, fingermarks and the like. For tougher spots, a cleaning pad, such as “Scotch Brite” is often required. Do not use mesh balls of metal wire (Not stainless steel), steel wool or metal brushes to clean stainless steel. Not only will these scratch the stainless steel surface but they will also leave behind carbon particles which will after time leave further staining when the surface gets wet.

It is better to use a soft nylon brush for cleaning patterned stainless steel. Do not use steel brushes made of any material besides stainless steel.

For stainless steel with a polished finish with visible polishing grains, clean the steel with the grain – not against the grain. When water has been used for cleaning and rinsing, wipe the surface dry to prevent water from drying and forming watermarks, especially in areas with hard water. Avoid this type of watermark by using distilled water.

To avoid transferring contamination in the form of iron particles, make sure the cleaning material was not used for cleaning mild (carbon) steel previously. It is best to use cleaning materials designed specifically for use with stainless steel.

To remove fingermarks and similar spots on indoor stainless steel surfaces, soapy water or a mild dishwashing detergent will usually give reliable and rewarding results.

Spray cleaners available on the market make cleaning easy and also leave a thin film for polished effect. Such spray cleaners remove fingermarks and reduce the tendency for new marks to keep forming. Buff with a soft dry cloth.

Discoloration must be removed mechanically using a nylon sponge such as “Scotch Brite” which are used in kitchens. Alternatively, it is possible to use retail cleaners containing phosphoric acid that are intended for use on stainless steel.

Stainless steel with a mirror finish can be cleaned using all purpose window cleaners. They should not contain chlorides (common salt).

For tougher spots, cream polish like Vim can be effective as well as baby oil. These can also be used for wiping off water spots and can alleviate discoloration. Remove this type of residue by rinsing with clean water (preferably distilled water) and wipe away any remaining streaks of polish or watermarks. Do not use scouring powder as it will scratch the stainless steel surface.

Tough grease or oil marks can be removed using denatured alcohol or acetone. There is no risk of corroding the stainless steel by using such solvents. Be careful to limit the amount of solvent used, to avoid spreading the spots over a large area, which makes cleaning more difficult. For this reason it may be more beneficial to wash more than once using a pure solvent on a clean soft cloth until all of the grease residue has been eliminated.

Paint and graffiti can be removed by using ordinary soda solutions, or paint removers. Do not use paint scrapers or knives to remove dirt spots as they will scratch the stainless surface.

Badly neglected surfaces can be cleaned with a metal polisher used for cleaning chromium plated surfaces. Also the type of polishing agents used for polishing car enamel can be considered. Be careful however, because mirror finish surfaces can be scratched by this type of polish.

Do not use the following cleaning agents to clean stainless steel:

• Cleaners containing Chloride
• Bleaches containing hypochlorite
• Silver Polish

Regular Cleaning

For outdoor installations, rain will usually wash off accumulated dirt and other coatings, if the surfaces are freely exposed. Be particularly aware of surfaces protected by a roof when performing routine cleaning to flush off areas that may not be accessible as others. This is especially important in maritime and industrial environments.

In real terms we advise to clean you balustrade as regularly as you clean your windows.

If you require any assistance regarding any of the points raised, please feel free to give us a call.

Stainless steel grades pre-dominantly used for balustrade purposes are AISI 304 and AISI 316

AISI304 INTERNAL

AISI316 EXTERNAL

These two grades appear the same on inspection but perform differently dependent upon their surrounding environment. This is in part due to their difference in chemical composition.

AISI 316 offers more resistance to corrosion due to an element called molybdenum.

The final consideration is the surface finish of the stainless steel. Normally satin and mirror polished are the standard but these two surface finishes can look significantly different when polished with varying grade sanding belts.

Mirror polished material for example is polished down to approximately 0.2 microns so that the surface is completely smooth to the touch, shows no grain resulting in a surface very similar to that of a "mirror". This makes it the most suitable finish to be used in and up to an area of 10Km from the coast.

Satin polished material is taken down to approximately 0.5 microns and the grain can be clearly seen.

Normally micron values are converted to grit readings which appertain to the type of "sanding" belt used to achieve the relevant finish. Balcony UK's standard satin finish is 320 grit minimum.

Warning:- If ordering tube from an alternative source, "off the shelf tube" can be polished from from 120 grit to 240 grit, this has the effect of appearing dull in comparison to our fittings.

If in doubt, please ask one of our sales team who would be more than happy to help.

Care must be taken when citing balustrade, the following is a quick guide to the main factors when deciding what type of balustrade is best for the project involved. The list is by no means exhaustive and we suggest that you seek professional advice if unsure.

Position/Grade of material and finish

• Indoor or outdoor use.
• Atmospheric conditions.
• Swimming pools – High Humidity, Chlorine.
• Coastal – High atmospheric corrosion.

Balustrade Position

• Balcony
• Stairs
• Ramps
• Guardrail

Level of Use (Building Regulations)

Private - Private dwelling or similar which is used by a small number of people who are generally familiar with the handrail, stair or balcony.

Public - Used intermittently by a large number of people, some of whom are not familiar with it and which is located in a commercial building, office or public building.

Assembly - Used simultaneously by a large number of people, many of whom are not familiar with it and is located in an assembly building such as Theatres, Concert halls, Retail etc.

Regulation and Standards

• Stair Design:- Approved Document K (1) & M (UK)
• Approved Document Part S (2) Scotland
• Approved Technical Booklet H (3) Northern Ireland

Also

British Standard BS5395-1:2010

• Code of practice for the design construction and maintenance of straight stairs and winders.

British Standard BS6180:2011

• Code of practice for barriers in and about buildings.

Fitting Capabilities

Whilst no specialist experience is required a general degree of knowledge is helpful when choosing fittings for bases and top rails. Please ask for assistance if unsure.

Building Occupancy Classes

Design Load Categories

We therefore advise that areas most associated with private individual purchases fall into Building occupancy class 1 & 2.

When a post system is required.

With a clear factor of safety, 10mm toughened glass will be more than acceptable providing the panel size is no greater than 1200mm between posts.

When our free standing glass system the following is advised.

Care must be taken when citing balustrade, the following is a quick guide to the main factors when deciding what type of balustrade is best for the project involved. The list is by no means exhaustive and we suggest that you seek professional advice if unsure.

Baluster

This is the term for a single post. The post is made up of some form of base plate, a tubular upright and some form of top to take a horizontal top rail. Glass, sheet, wire are the normal materials that can be used as infill. Alternatively, any material which can be connected to the uprights safely and adhere to local building regulations can also be used.

Balustrade

A balustrade system is the collective term for a row of repeating balusters.

A balustrade is most often found on stairways, porches, decking and balconies. Their main purpose being to keep people from falling off interior/exterior building structures.

Handrail

Using various materials such as tube, wood, metal, plastic etc. as a rail which can be held, such as on the side of a staircase, ramp, or other walkway and serving as a support or guard.

Normally supported by means of brackets either wall or post mounted can include bends, corners and any other inline fitting that caters for a change in direction.

Ends

Normally, the same size as the handrail diameter and is used to terminate the ends of the handrail. Various configurations such as domed, mitered, flat, bulbous and connective wall sockets can be used to terminate handrail where required.

Infill

A material that fills an otherwise unoccupied space between two adjacent balusters. Normally made from glass, tube, rod, wire, Perspex and perforated sheet.

Mounting

This refers to the base detail and the format of how it fixes to the sub-structure.

Normally top and side mounted are the options.